Sunday, November 18, 2007

Venice

Okay,I think I have recovered enough from my near death experience, to finish my entry from our last trip. For weeks now, I have been meaning to sit down and write about our trip to Venice but I just couldn't seem to find the time. So now before our next visitors (my sister, bro-in-law and 2 adorable nieces) come tomorrow(yay!), I have vowed that I will memorialize our trip before the day is out.

The kids came back from their school trips in the first part of October and had a long 4 day weekend so we decided to take advantage and schedule a trip to Venice. It was another "high priority" visit place and I was definitely eager to go.



Our weather couldn't have been better. October can be tricky but we werelucky to have sunny days all 4 days we were there and I don't think a drop of rain the entire time. It was warm enough to enjoy outdoor cafes, and drinks at outdoor cafes - often, very often. Our first day, we wandered all over the streets of Venice, over bridges and canals. It is as picturesque as you would imagine. We took a wonderful gondola ride. Our guide took us through the back canals. We did go into the Grand Canal for a bit but the Grand Canal is a major thoroughfare and it would have been like taking a rickshaw through the 405 Freeway in Southern California. Could it be done? Sure but not nearly as enjoyable or as beautiful as going the less travelled route. Our gondolier explained to us that there are about 400 gondoliers worldwide and they have to go through rigorous testing before they become licensed. I am glad that we chose to have our tour in the day. The night would be very romantic but truthfully, not very illuminating. Venice does not seem to light many of its attractions so I am not sure how much we would have been able to see at night. I like romance as much as the next person, but if it is going to be dark outside I might as well be in my garage (if I had one). So practicality won out and I am glad it did.



We spent quite a bit of time in the St. Marks Square area, where there alwaysseems to be a hub of activity. First, there can be hundreds of pigeons there. Probably conditioned by years and years of tourists feeding them. I really hate pigeons, I think of them as rats with wings. I can't help it. But some people don't, and they fed the pigeons in hope that they would do something memorable. Can you imagine if these were rats? Yuck.




We went up in St. Mark's Campanile (Bell Tower) where you can get a fantastic view of the city and the square. The aerial view at the beginning of this entry is from the top of the Campanile. I know that you thought I had scaled the top of some hotel or church but actually I rode up in the elevator.


In St. Mark's Basilica I was somewhat surprised to find they don't charge admission. However,once you get inside there are charges for different areas to see some of the more important pieces in the Church's collection. No photography was allowed inside and I respect that request as I recognize flash photography can be destructive to some of these relics that have survived thousands of years and also photography is disruptive to those around you trying to get into the spiritual aspect of the church. Some of my fellow tourists don't feel the same, however, and I was dismayed to find several taking pictures after pointedly being told not to by actual people in addition to the signage posted just about everywhere. There are some beautiful pieces in St. Marks, the Pala d'Oro - a huge gold altar screen circ 1102 a.d., encrusted with all kinds of semi-precious stones and jewels. The mosaics in this church are probably some of the best I have ever seen. When you think that the picture on the ceiling is made of thousands upon thousands of pieces of glass and colored stone put up there between 1000 and 1400 AD, it is amazing indeed.

Inside the Basilica, there are several small chapels housing relics (for which there is a charge - good job Benedict). I don't mean to be a doubting Wendy, but I wonder about the authenticity of some of these pieces. I think these people believe these are the relics but I want to know how they know? For example, one display case had several very old, golden chalices. Scattered about around the chalices, laying on the display shelves were some stones. Plain gray stones, like the ones I have in my garden back home. Apparently according to the information provided, these were some of the stones thrown at St. Stephen when stoned to death. He was the first Christian martyr, stoned shortly after the crucifixion. I just find it hard to believe that people picked up these stones and held on to them for thousands of years. Also there is very little done as far atmospheric controls, so I find it hard to believe that some of these relics, like a thorn from Jesus' crown or a piece of wood from the true cross, or the leg bones and/or skull of St. Paul's, would survive thousands of years just being put in a glass case on a shelf. Especially in a church that can get flooded during certain months of the year. But I guess that is what faith is all about.

Also in St. Mark's square are a few shops, bars and restaurants. At nights several of the restaurants have orchestras playing outside, "dueling". When one orchestra finishes, the other one across the square starts right up. On nice evenings, crowds form to listen. We listened for quite some time one night and it was very beautiful. Something about standing in St. Mark's square on a beautiful October evening, in the shadow of the basilica. It was wonderful.

One of the most impressive buildings was the Doge's Palace. The Doge was the Chief Magistrate of Venice for almost 1000 years. It is a life time position and the Doge was chosen by the other aristocrats in Venice. Other than the cool
palace that came with the job, being a doge wasn't all what you thought it might be. As a Doge, you didn't get a large salary, you weren't allowed to leave Venice, you couldn't really go anywhere on your own. Doges couldn't own property in foreign lands and couldn't open their own mail from foreign dignitaries unless other officials were present. So you see other than the cool digs, the job just doesn't sound that good. But the palace is beautiful, just filled with beautiful artwork and architecture. It also operated as the court house. This is sort of the complaint box in a the palace. So if you wanted to let the powers to be know that someone was up to no good, you would put your complaint in writing and put into this mouth which was attached to a box on the other side. So let's say just as a random, example, the other tenants in your building take up more than their fair share of the recycling bins leaving you no room for you to put your beer bottles or diet coke cans- you could put that in writing and the authorities would decide if it was something that merited further investigation and a trial. After a trial, when they were found guilty (because they do take up more than their fair share of the recycling bins) they would be marched over to the prison, right next door!! In fact they had a covered pathway that led right over a canal from the court to the prison. It was through the windows in this bridge that often saw their last little bit of Venice before being thrown in the slammer and many of them would moan or complain as they walked from freedom to captivity on this pathway called . . . . The Bridge of Sighs. So as Paul Harvey would say, now you know the rest of the story.



Bridge of Sighs


Other interesting tidbit learned on this trip? This type of Venetian Mask was very popular among doctors treating patients in the days of the plague around the mid 1300s. They would stuff a pot-pouri type of mixture in the long noise and hopefully it would mask some of the smell of death (rotting corpses) that permeated the city at the time. Another plague related tidbit(is it weird that I have several plague related tidbits?), on almost every street we walked on we came across a religious statue, plaque, cross or marking. Kiki just learned in history that during the plague many people were fearful to trek across the cities to go to their churches, so they put up these icons so they could go somewhere close to home and feel closer to God and at the same time be less likely to contract the black death. I am not sure how well it worked since it is estimated millions died in the epidemic.

There was just so much more. I think Venice was one of my favorite trips since we have been here. It is easy to walk around, get lost in the back streets, drink red wine, see some history, absorb the beauty but at the same time we didn't feel the frantic tourist pace to see it all- quickly, quickly, quickly. I took several hundred pictures , all of which I am going to show you right now. No, not really. But I will leave you with a few of the other things we saw on our trip. If I had been murdered earlier this week, I would have died happy because I had seen Venice. Sorry Charlie - better luck next time!!








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When it absolutely, postively has to be there!


Saints being propped up by the church?


Rialto Market


Venetian Traffic Jam





Murano Glass Balloons Kiki & I thought were cool.


The best for last. A copy of the receipt that shows my glass of wine cost less than the kids' cokes and Chizz's beer!! See another reason to have wine as your primary beverage. Like you needed another reason. Ciao!!

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