Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Breakfast with Sir Paul

After my guests left yesterday, I went to meet my friend for a quick cup of coffee and to catch up on her recent trip. Well, our usual Starbucks was just jammed packed so we headed off to the cafe next door which was a little less crowded and we might actually be able to hear ourselves speak.

We settled in, got our cappucino and tea and started chatting. About 30 minutes into our conversation, I noticed a man striding in and took his place at a table behind me. Yes, it was him -- Sir Paul McCartney. There by himself!! He is a regular at this particular establishment and the other times I have seen him, he has been near this spot. But it was my friend's first sighting and that was exciting for her. After a few minutes, he was joined by the new woman in his life and his son. The new girlfriend is an American as was his wife, Linda. Hmmmmmmm. Interesting pattern, huh? I hadn't remembered he had a son, his daughters usually are the ones in the news. But my friend thought it was his son and after some research on the Internet, I found she is right. (Stalker, much?) It was all very surreal because it was all very normal. I think one of the reasons he does live here is that he seems to be able to walk in this small neighborhood to the cafe, to the cleaners, to the bank almost like a normal person. Almost like a person who doesn't have a gazillion pounds or was part of a musical revolution that many artists today still cite as an influence in their own work. And he still is the cute one, at 60+ years old.

Now, I am not going to name the cafe - although I think it is pretty much common knowledge in the area. Because if the paparazzi and hangers-on start hanging out there, my friend and I might not be able to go there any more. Hey!! They could want the photos of two this-side-of-middle-age-wives of insurance and oil company executives. You don't know!!!

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Ain't That The Truth!

Well, I just got back from Paddington Station to drop off our visitors to take the train to the airport. It has been a fun week; I already miss them. Since I last wrote, my guests managed to go to Hampton Court Palace, have several pub lunches, go to the British Museum to see the mummies and the Rosetta Stone, ride the tube about a billion times, have a proper English tea, shop on Carnaby Street, eat Indian food, visit St. Paul's, and ice skate at the Tower of London. Doesn't it make you tired just reading it?

One of the last things they did was something close to our home. The infamous Abbey Road Studios, where the Beatles recorded much of their music, is very close to our flat. So what visit to London would be complete without your very own picture of your family recreating the infamous Abbey Road Beatle photo? So off they went to do that!
They also signed the stone wall in front of the studios. Every day tourists come to see the crosswalk and the studio. They write messages on the wall. Some of the messages are reminiscent in nature, remembering when they went to a concert or their favorite albums, some messages declare their favorite Beatle, some are more current "%&!#/* Heather!". Every few weeks or so, they paint the wall and it starts all over again. Of course, our guests needed to sign the wall. What to say, what to say?


I think this says it all.


P.S. Apparently, I have been misspelling Do's name all these years (8, almost 9). Who knew? Bad, bad Auntie. Sorry Do!

Friday, November 23, 2007

Its a Jolly Holiday with Bean & Dew

My sister, her husband and my 2 gorgeous nieces, Bean & Dew are here visiting us for Thanksgiving. Bean & Dew are 8 & 11 and it is interesting seeing London through their eyes, what they want to do and what they are interested in.

We went to see the play Mary Poppins. It was actually the kids' second night here and they were remarkably unjetlagged. I think that comes from flying in on a red-eye, they got a chance to sleep a bit on the plane. I can't say the same for their parents, Auntie L & Uncle S. I think they had a little bit of a harder time. The play was fun, I think the kids enjoyed it. There were a few new songs that weren't in the Julie Andrews movie and a few surprises. Also a surprise? The two people who took flash pictures DURING the play. One had their camera confiscated, the other person refused to hand over their camera and eventually had to be removed by security.

At the end of the play, Mary Poppins flies out over the audience. She got pretty high up. We were in the mezzanine and she came within about 25 feet or so from us.

Bean, Dew and their parents have also been to the Tower of London, Greenwhich, Changing of the Guard at Buckingham palace, Hamley's toy store, ridden a black cab, taken a tour of Kiki & Ryan's school, been on a doubledecker bus, seen the Christmas decorations on Oxford Street, and met with Father Christmas at Harrods. Whew! I get tired just typing it all. And they still have 4 more nights!

Their weather has been fairly good but a little cold. These are Southern California folk, they don't even own any wool!! But they are making good ground. We also got a Thanksgiving dinner in as well! It has been a whirlwind and I think everyone is having a good time. We are certainly enjoying having them here. Like Mary, it has been practically perfect - in a Bean & Dew way!

Sunday, November 18, 2007

Venice

Okay,I think I have recovered enough from my near death experience, to finish my entry from our last trip. For weeks now, I have been meaning to sit down and write about our trip to Venice but I just couldn't seem to find the time. So now before our next visitors (my sister, bro-in-law and 2 adorable nieces) come tomorrow(yay!), I have vowed that I will memorialize our trip before the day is out.

The kids came back from their school trips in the first part of October and had a long 4 day weekend so we decided to take advantage and schedule a trip to Venice. It was another "high priority" visit place and I was definitely eager to go.



Our weather couldn't have been better. October can be tricky but we werelucky to have sunny days all 4 days we were there and I don't think a drop of rain the entire time. It was warm enough to enjoy outdoor cafes, and drinks at outdoor cafes - often, very often. Our first day, we wandered all over the streets of Venice, over bridges and canals. It is as picturesque as you would imagine. We took a wonderful gondola ride. Our guide took us through the back canals. We did go into the Grand Canal for a bit but the Grand Canal is a major thoroughfare and it would have been like taking a rickshaw through the 405 Freeway in Southern California. Could it be done? Sure but not nearly as enjoyable or as beautiful as going the less travelled route. Our gondolier explained to us that there are about 400 gondoliers worldwide and they have to go through rigorous testing before they become licensed. I am glad that we chose to have our tour in the day. The night would be very romantic but truthfully, not very illuminating. Venice does not seem to light many of its attractions so I am not sure how much we would have been able to see at night. I like romance as much as the next person, but if it is going to be dark outside I might as well be in my garage (if I had one). So practicality won out and I am glad it did.



We spent quite a bit of time in the St. Marks Square area, where there alwaysseems to be a hub of activity. First, there can be hundreds of pigeons there. Probably conditioned by years and years of tourists feeding them. I really hate pigeons, I think of them as rats with wings. I can't help it. But some people don't, and they fed the pigeons in hope that they would do something memorable. Can you imagine if these were rats? Yuck.




We went up in St. Mark's Campanile (Bell Tower) where you can get a fantastic view of the city and the square. The aerial view at the beginning of this entry is from the top of the Campanile. I know that you thought I had scaled the top of some hotel or church but actually I rode up in the elevator.


In St. Mark's Basilica I was somewhat surprised to find they don't charge admission. However,once you get inside there are charges for different areas to see some of the more important pieces in the Church's collection. No photography was allowed inside and I respect that request as I recognize flash photography can be destructive to some of these relics that have survived thousands of years and also photography is disruptive to those around you trying to get into the spiritual aspect of the church. Some of my fellow tourists don't feel the same, however, and I was dismayed to find several taking pictures after pointedly being told not to by actual people in addition to the signage posted just about everywhere. There are some beautiful pieces in St. Marks, the Pala d'Oro - a huge gold altar screen circ 1102 a.d., encrusted with all kinds of semi-precious stones and jewels. The mosaics in this church are probably some of the best I have ever seen. When you think that the picture on the ceiling is made of thousands upon thousands of pieces of glass and colored stone put up there between 1000 and 1400 AD, it is amazing indeed.

Inside the Basilica, there are several small chapels housing relics (for which there is a charge - good job Benedict). I don't mean to be a doubting Wendy, but I wonder about the authenticity of some of these pieces. I think these people believe these are the relics but I want to know how they know? For example, one display case had several very old, golden chalices. Scattered about around the chalices, laying on the display shelves were some stones. Plain gray stones, like the ones I have in my garden back home. Apparently according to the information provided, these were some of the stones thrown at St. Stephen when stoned to death. He was the first Christian martyr, stoned shortly after the crucifixion. I just find it hard to believe that people picked up these stones and held on to them for thousands of years. Also there is very little done as far atmospheric controls, so I find it hard to believe that some of these relics, like a thorn from Jesus' crown or a piece of wood from the true cross, or the leg bones and/or skull of St. Paul's, would survive thousands of years just being put in a glass case on a shelf. Especially in a church that can get flooded during certain months of the year. But I guess that is what faith is all about.

Also in St. Mark's square are a few shops, bars and restaurants. At nights several of the restaurants have orchestras playing outside, "dueling". When one orchestra finishes, the other one across the square starts right up. On nice evenings, crowds form to listen. We listened for quite some time one night and it was very beautiful. Something about standing in St. Mark's square on a beautiful October evening, in the shadow of the basilica. It was wonderful.

One of the most impressive buildings was the Doge's Palace. The Doge was the Chief Magistrate of Venice for almost 1000 years. It is a life time position and the Doge was chosen by the other aristocrats in Venice. Other than the cool
palace that came with the job, being a doge wasn't all what you thought it might be. As a Doge, you didn't get a large salary, you weren't allowed to leave Venice, you couldn't really go anywhere on your own. Doges couldn't own property in foreign lands and couldn't open their own mail from foreign dignitaries unless other officials were present. So you see other than the cool digs, the job just doesn't sound that good. But the palace is beautiful, just filled with beautiful artwork and architecture. It also operated as the court house. This is sort of the complaint box in a the palace. So if you wanted to let the powers to be know that someone was up to no good, you would put your complaint in writing and put into this mouth which was attached to a box on the other side. So let's say just as a random, example, the other tenants in your building take up more than their fair share of the recycling bins leaving you no room for you to put your beer bottles or diet coke cans- you could put that in writing and the authorities would decide if it was something that merited further investigation and a trial. After a trial, when they were found guilty (because they do take up more than their fair share of the recycling bins) they would be marched over to the prison, right next door!! In fact they had a covered pathway that led right over a canal from the court to the prison. It was through the windows in this bridge that often saw their last little bit of Venice before being thrown in the slammer and many of them would moan or complain as they walked from freedom to captivity on this pathway called . . . . The Bridge of Sighs. So as Paul Harvey would say, now you know the rest of the story.



Bridge of Sighs


Other interesting tidbit learned on this trip? This type of Venetian Mask was very popular among doctors treating patients in the days of the plague around the mid 1300s. They would stuff a pot-pouri type of mixture in the long noise and hopefully it would mask some of the smell of death (rotting corpses) that permeated the city at the time. Another plague related tidbit(is it weird that I have several plague related tidbits?), on almost every street we walked on we came across a religious statue, plaque, cross or marking. Kiki just learned in history that during the plague many people were fearful to trek across the cities to go to their churches, so they put up these icons so they could go somewhere close to home and feel closer to God and at the same time be less likely to contract the black death. I am not sure how well it worked since it is estimated millions died in the epidemic.

There was just so much more. I think Venice was one of my favorite trips since we have been here. It is easy to walk around, get lost in the back streets, drink red wine, see some history, absorb the beauty but at the same time we didn't feel the frantic tourist pace to see it all- quickly, quickly, quickly. I took several hundred pictures , all of which I am going to show you right now. No, not really. But I will leave you with a few of the other things we saw on our trip. If I had been murdered earlier this week, I would have died happy because I had seen Venice. Sorry Charlie - better luck next time!!








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When it absolutely, postively has to be there!


Saints being propped up by the church?


Rialto Market


Venetian Traffic Jam





Murano Glass Balloons Kiki & I thought were cool.


The best for last. A copy of the receipt that shows my glass of wine cost less than the kids' cokes and Chizz's beer!! See another reason to have wine as your primary beverage. Like you needed another reason. Ciao!!

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

I Think 'Someone' Is Trying To Kill Me

Okay, I don't want to go all Mohamed Al-Fayed on you but I think I have serious reason to be concerned. Remember Mohamed? He is the owner of Harrods Department store and his son was killed in the same car crash as Princess Diana. The son is generally spoken of as an afterthought if at all in most articles or stories on the subject. Mr. Al-Fayed's grief has kept this car crash in the news for almost 10 years, his insistence that this was not an accident has finally culminated in an inquest that started last month in London. Mr. Al-Fayed's current theory is that Prince Phillip, husband of Queen Elizabeth, ordered Diana killed for any number of reasons. It is quite sad actually and I do feel sorry for him, but it is costing UK taxpayers (us!) loads. But like Mohamed, I suspect the Royal Family might be up to no good. Let me tell you my story.

I was meeting my friend today at the Underground station near my house, about a 3 city-block walk. I got to the intersection on Abbey Road and was waiting for the light to turn. Street crossing in London is an extreme sport, you need to keep your wits about you. So I was trying to concentrate on crossing the street, when I was just about to step into the crosswalk a police motorcycle comes screaming up to crosswalk - just barely missing me. He motions me back on the sidewalk, and starts directing traffic to go through the light and not stop even at the red. I was trying to figure out what was going on, when I saw the motorcade. Several motorcycle police officers, a truck and 3 sedans. In one of the sedans (it was either a Jaguar or a Bentley), Camilla and Prince Charles!! They drove so close and slow enough that I had a good view of his bald spot.

Now you may remember that last year when I went to Wellington Arch, Prince Charles' motorcade tried to run me over there as well. Coincidence? I think not. Somehow though I don't think there will be an official inquest. But if something happens to me, you all know where to look!!

Friday, November 09, 2007

Guy Fawkes Night

Monday was Guy Fawkes Day. It is a celebration in honor of foiling an attempt by Guy Fawkes and his cronies to blow up the Parliament building in 1605. They were hoping to kill James I and his Protestant buddies at the opening of Parliament that day. Guy and his friends were Catholics and they were concerned, apparently rightly so, that Catholics wouldn't get a fair shake in James' England. So they set about planning to blow up the Parliament building. One of the guys got a little worried that in addition to blowing up all the mean, spiteful Protestants, they might catch a Catholic or two. So he wrote an anonymous note warning one of the noblemen of the plot. They found Guy Fawkes in the basement of the Parliament building just in the nick of time - allegedly just as he was to light the fuse with his torch. After torturing him for a few days, Guy was hung then drawn & quartered. Ouch.

Over time the event has been celebrated with huge bonfires, burning Guy in effigy and all kinds of fireworks. There are fireworks displays in just about every big city or neighborhoods. Also, you can buy fireworks in the grocery or department store. Real fireworks, m-80s, roman candles, rockets etc. It is amazing the fire power of these fireworks you can buy right next to the milk. For the past few nights, our neighborhood has sounded something like a war zone. It would be the perfect time to shoot someone; it would be hard to distinguish the sound from the fireworks. Our neighbors, 2 doors down, put on quite the show. About 30 minutes of fireworks, just outside our back window. Look how close.





In a way, Guy Fawkes was one of the first terrorists. It may explain this country's deep seeded fear of Catholics. To this day, the heir to the British throne is forbidden by law to marry a Catholic. He can marry a Hindu, Buddhist or Jew but no Catholic. C'mon England, it was over 400 years ago! How long can you hold a grudge?